You can recognize Waihe e’ on Google Earth by its dunes a very unique feature in the Hawaiian Islands. The dunes were created a long time ago when things were different on the island. We went there for a nature walk and to learn about the history of the area. There were several people there from the organization that did the work to preserve the area in its natural state. The first one we met was Dale Bonar who introduced us to Scott Fisher who led the hike. Susan Bradford was also there, but didn’t say anything for a long time, but eventually made up for her initial silence.
Susan Bradford is a force of nature. Like lightening, she is both beautiful and scary at the same time. When I first met her, she seemed unnecessarily loud and impatient. We were on a guided walk at Waihe e’ near Wailuku on Maui. It is one of the pieces of Hawaii that have been protected from development by the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust.
Scott is one of those guys that has so much information packed in his brain he can’t talk enough. As we walked, Scott told the history of the place, both recent and long ago. He talked about how the ancient Mauians farmed taro here because of the area’s consistent source of water.
The Hawaiian word mauka means mountain. Instead of giving directions in reference to north, south, east or west, people usually say where something is in relation to the ocean or the mountain. So when Scott said that mauka from the dunes were the rivers that flowed out of the West Maui mountains, he meant they were just uphill from where we were. Because of this plentiful source of water, Waihe e’ grew more taro than any other region in Hawaii. Just like now, having a source of water meant food and food meant power.
Scott told us of the farming techniques the Hawaiians used to raise taro. He told us about medicinal plants and let us sample some. He described how the fish ponds worked. Every time we stopped Scott would launch into another piece of history. And Waihe e’ has a lot of it.
Locals call the place “Skull Hill,” because just about anywhere you dig, you find bones. When the company that was planning on developing the area did the required archaeological survey, they found ninety-three geological sites: Ninety-three because that’s how many holes they dug.
Scott was describing one of the battles that took place nearby when Susan, in her amazingly powerful voice, alerted the group that, “We better get going, or we’re never going to get to the point!”
The pattern was set, so off we went. We would hike for ten or fifteen minutes, stop and Scott would start in, talking about how at one time, there were 2000 war canoes just offshore. He was describing what the scene must have looked like when Susan barked, “OK, time to go!”
It wasn’t until we stopped at a raised area near the fish ponds that Susan got her turn to talk. It was a spot where you could literally feel the presence of the ancients. Susan started with a quick history of how the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust began. Had it not been for the failure of another project, this place might be golf courses and condos now. It wasn’t until then that I understood Susan’s brusqueness. It wasn’t because she likes being pushy. It is because she understands the urgency that we are faced with in preserving these types of places and for that matter, the world. This understanding sets the pace of her life. We literally don’t have time to waste.
When I was in my twenties, I spent a lot of time working in Maui, ultimately, making the decision not to live there. My reason was simple: I could see what development was doing to Hawaii and didn’t want to be a part of the destruction.
When Susan first came to the islands, she saw pretty much the same issues, but reacted differently. She decided to save as much as she could.
Since then, I’ve slowly come to the realization that we can’t simply walk away, and it isn’t just about an island chain in the Pacific. It’s about the entire planet.
So, like Susan would say, “Come on! It’s time to get going.”
–Mark Alvis